The Ultimate Audi Timing Belt Guide

Ah, the timing belt. I wrote this article because there is a lot of information on timing belts, especially for Audi’s. My goal is to make this a complete resource for anything Audi timing belt-related. I will continue to build and add on to this article as time goes on with information to help anybody understand Audi’s timing system.

What a Timing Belt Does

A timing belt synchronizes the rotation of the crankshaft and camshaft. This allows the valves in the cylinder head to open and close at times needed to create compression and power. In a standard 4-stroke engine, the camshaft rotates twice to every rotation of the crankshaft. Some cars use a timing chain to accomplish this. Timing chains are usually more durable and require less maintenance.

Audi Timing Belt Service Intervals

Here is a quick list of service intervals I have found. Please know that Audi may have released some TSBs (Technical Service Bulletin) that could have changed these intervals. Please use this list as a reference only (it should be accurate or at least close). Call your dealer for a precise interval for your specific Audi.

Audi A3

• 8P 2.0T FSI – 75,000 Miles

Audi A4

• B5 / B6 1.8T – 105,000 Miles
• B5 2.8 V6 – 105,000 Miles
• B6 3.0 V6 – 105,000 Miles
• B7 2.0T FSI – 75,000 Miles

Audi A6 / Allroad

• C4 / C5 2.8 V6 – 105,000 Miles
• C5 2.7 Bi-Turbo – 105,000 Miles
• C5 3.0 V6 – 105,000 Miles
• C5 4.2 V8 – 105,000 Miles
• C5 S6 4.2 V8 – 80,000 Miles
• C5 RS6 4.2 V8 – 80,000 Miles

Audi A8

• D2 3.7 V8 – 105,000 Miles
• D2 4.2 V8 – 105,000 Miles
• D3 4.2 V8 – 105,000 Miles

Audi TT

• MK1 1.8T – 105,000 Miles
• MK2 2.0T FSI – 75,000 Miles

Timing Belt vs. Timing Chain

You may wonder what the difference is between a timing chain and a timing belt. Timing chains usually last longer than belts do in most cases (Damn you, B6 S4!). Most of the time, they endure the life of the vehicle (at least they are supposed to).

Timing Chain

Pros:

• Less maintenance required
• Usually can last the life of the vehicle
• Rarely drives other components (like the water pump)

Cons:

• Slightly louder than a belt
• Tensioners usually are typically controlled by oil pressure/hydraulic
• Frequent oil changes using the correct oil is critical with chain-driven engines since oil actuated tensioners are sensitive to any sludge build-up
• Usually has multiple tensioners and chains, especially in V configured engines
• Parts are more expensive
• Labor for a timing chain job is more costly. Some Audi’s, have chains located in the rear of the engine between the transmission and block, so the motor has to be pulled.

Timing Belt

Pros:

• Quieter than chains
• More straightforward in design and fewer components to the system
• Relatively simple replacement compared to timing chains
• Parts are usually cheaper
• Labor is usually cheaper. Timing belts are always in the front of the engine.
• Tensioners are standalone and do not rely on engine oil pressure

Cons:

• Typically requires more frequent replacement compared to timing chains. (60k-100k miles)

With this said, newer Audi’s are switching to timing chains, and the technology is getting more refined with fewer issues being reported on more recent models.

How to Tell If It’s Time to Replace the Timing Belt on Your Audi?

I hear this question a lot, and I have some bad news for people asking this. Most of the time, you cannot tell by just looking at the timing belt if it needs replacing. Therefore, it is crucial to replace it at the recommended service intervals. If you purchased your Audi used and the miles are over the recommended interval, I would replace it to be safe, unless you have proof the previous owner replaced it and you know the miles on the car they replaced it.

Bad Timing Belt Symptoms

Timing Belt Glazing

• If your timing belt looks glossy, it may be time to replace it.

Timing Belt Cracking

• If you see any signs of cracking, the belt needs replacement as soon as possible. Cracking will usually show up on the toothed side of the belt.

Timing Belt Abrasion

• If you see abrasion or uneven wear along the edges of the timing belt. Sometimes you will even see some filaments or belt fraying. This is a good indicator that the pulleys or tensioners are worn out and becoming sloppy and not rotating. If you notice any of these things, it’s another sign to get a timing belt job done ASAP.

Tooth Wear

• Tooth wear is another thing you can check. All teeth on the belt should be uniformly shaped. Any misshaped teeth are a sign that a replacement is needed.

Engine Misfire

• If your timing belt has stretched out or even skipped a tooth on the pulley, it will probably cause some severe engine misfire or possibly a no-start condition. This is caused by the crank and cam not being synchronized as they should, which messes up your timing/valves not opening and closing when they should. With this being said, an engine misfire is usually caused by a host of other conditions. It is rare for a timing belt to skip a tooth and cause a misfire. Please check all other possibilities before assuming it’s the timing belt causing your misfire.

Engine Will Not Start

• This is a terrible sign if your timing belt is causing this issue. If your engine sounds different while cranking over, it could mean the timing belt has broken, and the motor cannot generate any compression. If this is the case, you will usually only hear the starter turning and not the engine’s normal “Chugging” sound before it starts.

Why Is It Bad If a Timing Belt Breaks?

Most newer engines today are of an interference design. When a valve is open, the piston at TDC (Top Dead Center) is at its highest point will take up the same space as the valve. Without the valve opening at the exact right time during the pistons travel, the piston will smash into the valve. It is usually causing catastrophic damage to the engine. Therefore, you must replace your timing belt before it breaks and causes severe and sometimes unrepairable engine damage.

What Does It Cost to Fix a Broken Timing Belt?

If you are lucky and only bend some valves in your cylinder head and cause no other damage. You will need to purchase a replacement cylinder head ($600-$1200 Used) or have yours rebuilt ($300-$600) per cylinder head. If you are not so lucky and a valve breaks off from being hit by the piston. You will most likely need a replacement engine. The average cost I see for a USED Audi engine is from $800-$4000, depending on what engine you need. Labor to install an engine is around 7-12 hours at $120 an hour. So really, the price of letting your timing belt break will cost you anywhere from $1300, if you are fortunate and have a cheaper engine (1.8T), up to about $6000 and weeks without your car. It just seems like a better idea to replace the belt before it breaks.

What Does It Cost to Replace an Audi Timing Belt?

I have made a list of the average labor times a shop should charge you for a timing belt replacement job. This is just the labor time, not the cost of parts.

Model	Years (Engine Code)	Hours	Cost ($120/hr)
Audi V8 Quattro	1992-1994 4.2L V8 (ABH)	4.6	$552
Audi 80	1992 2.3L 5cyl (NG)	2.1	$252
Audi 90	1993-1994 2.8L V6 (AAH) 1995 2.8L V6 (AAH) 1995 2.8L V6 (AFC)	3.2 2.6 1.8	$384 $312 $216
Audi 100	1992-1994 2.8L V6 (AAH)	3.2	$384
Audi Cabriolet	1994-1995 2.8L V6 (AAH) 1995-1998 2.8L V6 (AFC)	3.2 3.2	$384 $384
Audi A3	2006-2008 2.0T L4 (BPY)	4.6	$552
Audi A4	1996 2.8L V6 (AFC) 1997 2.8L V6 (ACK) 1997-1999 1.8T L4 (AEB) 1998-1999 2.8L V6 (AHA) 2000 1.8T L4 (ATW) 2000-2001 2.8L V6 (ATQ) 2001 1.8T L4 (AWM) 2002-2006 1.8T L4 (AMB) 2002-2004 3.0L V6 (AVK) 2005-2006 3.0L V6 (BGN) 2005-2006 2.0T L4 (BPG) 2007-2009 2.0T L4 (BWT)	4.2 5.2 5.3 5.2 5.3 6.3 5.3 6.1 7.0 7.0 4.1 4.1	$504 $624 $636 $624 $636 $756 $636 $732 $840 $840 $492 $492
Audi S4	1992-1994 2.2L 5cyl Turbo (AAN) 2000-2002 2.7T V6 (APB)	3.4 5.6	$408 $672
Audi A6	1995 2.8L V6 (AAH) 1995-1997 2.8L V6 (AFC) 1998-1999 2.8L V6 (AHA) 2000-2002 2.7T V6 (APB) 2000-2001 2.8L V6 (ATQ) 2000 4.2L V6 (ART) 2001-2004 4.2L V6 (AWN) 2002-2004 3.0L V6 (AVK) 2003-2004 2.7T V6 (BEL)	5.0 5.0 5.0 5.7 5.0 5.9 5.9 6.3 5.7	$600 $600 $600 $684 $600 $708 $708 $756 $684
Audi A6 Allroad	2001-2002 2.7T V6 (APB) 2003-2005 2.7T V6 (BEL)	5.3 5.3	$636 $636
Audi S6	1995 2.2L 5cyl Turbo (AAN) 2002-2004 4.2L V6 (BBD)	3.4 5.9	$408 $708
Audi A8	1997-1999 4.2L V8 (ABZ) 1997-1999 3.7L V8 (AEW) 2000-2003 4.2L V8 (AKB) 2001-2003 4.2L V8 (AUX) 2004-2005 4.2L V8 (BFM) 2006 4.2L V8 (BGK)	5.9 5.9 5.9 5.9 6.1 6.1	$708 $708 $708 $708 $732 $732
Audi S8	2001-2003 4.2L V8 (AYS)	5.9	$708
Audi TT	2000-2002 1.8T L4 (AMU) 2000-2001 1.8T L4 (ATC) 2001-2006 1.8T L4 (AWP) 2003-2006 1.8T L4 (BEA) 2008-2009 2.0T L4 (BPY)	3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 5.1	$420 $420 $420 $420 $612

Do I Need Special Tools or Skill?

This depends on the engine you are working on. As far as skill is concerned, if you have a good set of instructions and the correct tools for your specific vehicle, I think almost anybody could do most timing belt jobs. Patience and documentation are the key. Take pictures and jot down anything you think you will want to know as you are taking stuff apart so you can put it back together correctly. Remember, it’s only one bolt at a time. Now for the special tools. Below is a list I have gathered that should cover most Audi engines with the tools required to complete a timing belt job. This list is just the “Special” Audi/VW tools. You will still need a good set of standard tools and some other non-standard tools, such as a torque wrench.

Engine	Engine Code(s)	Tools Required
2.0T FSI	BWT BPG	T10020(Tensioner Pin Wrench) T40098(Locking Tool)
2.0T FSI	BPY	T10020(Tensioner Pin Wrench) T10060A(Locking Tool)
1.8T	AWM	T10092(Tensioning Bolt) T40011(Locking Pin) 3387(Tensioner Pin Wrench) T10008(Tensioner Locking Plate)
1.8T	AMU ATC AWP BEA	10222A(Engine Support Bridge) T10092(Tensioning Bolt) T40011(Locking Pin)
1.8T	AMB	1331(Torque Wrench) 3387(Pin Wrench) T10008(Tensioner Locking Plate) 1332(Torque Wrench)
1.8T	AEB	V/159(Tensioner Pin Wrench)
1.8T	ATW	T40011(Locking Pin)
4.2L V8	AKB ART AWN AYS BBD BFM	T40009(Tensioner Pin Spanner) 3242(Crankshaft Locking Bolt) 1783(Torque Wrench) 6234(Torque Wrench) T40001 with T40001/2(Cam Sprocket Puller with Jaws) T40005(Camshaft Lock) T40011(Locking Pin) 3212(Fan Pulley Holding Tool) 3204(Drift)
4.2L V8	ABZ	3312(Fan Wrench) 3197(Crankshaft Locking Tool) 3036(Timing Pulley Holding Tool) 3341(Camshaft Locking Tool)
2.7 Bi-Turbo	APB BEL	3036(Timing Pulley Holding Tool) 3212(Fan Pulley Holding Tool) 3242(Crankshaft Locking Bolt) 3391(Camshaft Locking Tool) T40001 with T40001/2(Cam Sprocket Puller with Jaws) T40011(Locking Pin)
2.8 V6 12v	AAH AFC	3242(Crankshaft Locking Bolt) Small 2 Arm Puller 3203(Crankshaft Oil Seal Puller) 3202(Seal Installer)
2.8 V6 30v	AHA ATQ	3036(Timing Pulley Holding Tool) 3242(Crankshaft Locking Bolt) 3391(Camshaft Locking Tool) T40001 with T40001/2(Cam Sprocket Puller with Jaws) T40011(Locking Pin) 3202(Seal Installer) 3203(Crankshaft Oil Seal Puller) 3265
3.0 V6 NA	AVK BGN ASN	3212(Fan Pulley Holding Tool) 3387(Pin Wrench) T40011(Locking Pin) T40026(Crankshaft Locking Bolt) T40028(Camshaft Adjusting Socket) T40030(Camshaft Holder Tool) T40039(Ignition Coil Puller)

Replace Just the Timing Belt?

A timing belt usually requires you to remove many other components from your vehicle before you can reach the actual belt. Therefore, it makes sense to replace any common wear items you’ve removed or have better access too along the way. The labor cost to replace these items is minimal since the chances are that it will already be removed from the car during the timing belt job. Standard items include the serpentine/drive belt, water pump, drive/serpentine belt tensioner, camshaft seals, crankshaft seal, and valve cover gaskets. At the least, I would recommend replacing the water pump during this time as the timing belt usually drives it, and a water pump failure will likely cause catastrophic timing belt failure.

OEM or Aftermarket Parts?

You always want the correct part for the job. Audi usually makes more power per displacement than most other car brands, which puts more stress on the timing components. It makes sense to trust the wellbeing of your engine in the hands of manufacturers that Audi relied on to make these components, to begin with. Audi tests parts made from OEMs (Original Equipment Manufacturers) to meet the standards they set and make it to the service intervals they have set. I would only put genuine Audi or OEM timing belt components into my Audi.

If you’ve done work on your own car, you have purchased some parts from the “Local Big Box” auto part stores and have likely found they don’t last nearly as long as the part you are replacing. In my experience, I have purchased “House Brand” brake pads and rotors from these auto part stores to replace some worn-out brakes in my car at 60k miles. Only 6k miles later, the rotors were warped so severely and needed replacement again! It’s worth spending a little more on parts and not working on my cars as often. I have one more experience I would like to share. This happened after I decided only to use name-brand/OEM parts in my vehicles. I was younger, in school full time, and on a strict budget. I bought a timing belt kit for my Audi A4 3.0L, and they labeled it as OEM, but it was cheaper than any other kit I could find online. I thought I just found a great deal. It turns out the belt itself was OEM, but the water pump was not.

After less than 2,000 miles while going down the highway 50 miles from home, my check engine lights starts blinking (meaning the car is misfiring badly). Suddenly the car dies! I try to start it again, but I know something is wrong as I don’t hear the standard “Chugging” sound of an engine turning over; I only hear the starter spinning. Long story short, the water pump pulley sheared off and destroyed the timing belt and engine! Boy was this rough; talk about killing my budget! The moral of the story only use parts made by OEM manufacturers. I know I will not make that mistake again. Here are some pictures of the carnage!

Please let me know what you think of this article or if I should include any other information. Comment below!